Designation of the Sperrin Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB)
The Sperrin AONB was first designated in 1968 and encompassing a largely mountainous area of great geological complexity. At 101,000ha (pre-2008) it was the largest AONB in Northern Ireland. This reflected the sheer size and complexity of the mountain and valley complex. Extending from the Strule Valley in the west to the edge of Lough Neagh lowlands in the east, this area, with its expanses of moorland penetrated by narrow glens and deep valleys formed the essential character and ‘sense of place’ of the AONB.
The Sperrin AONB was subsequently re-designated in 2008 under the 1985 Nature conservation and Amenity Lands Order (NCALO) with a revised boundary, now covering some 118206 hectares.
The new areas added encompassed extra land within the Sperrin foothills along the northern boundary. This included substantial additional sections of the Burn Dennet and Faughan River systems on account of them having been identified as an area of Scenic Quality in 1999 Landscape Character Assessment (LCA) series and the significant valley landscape systems comprising outstanding views fascinating and varied glacial morphology and densely wooded valleys. Other inclusions included north of Newtownstewart where the previously ill-defined boundary on the ground was shifted eastwards to follow the moorland edge above the Foyle valley and at the northern of this section at Strabane, it was extended westward to include the scenic valley of the Cavanalee and the top of Knockavaoe.
The Purpose of the Designation
The designation of the Sperrins as an AONB is recognition of the national importance of the area. However, it is not enough to acknowledge the significance of such an asset, rather it is essential to ensure that the area continues to be an asset and that the population at large can enjoy its qualities. Inevitably, as in the past, there will be technological, economic and social progress not to mention possible environmental change which will impose new demands on the land and its resources. Designation of the AONB is one step in this ever-changing relationship between people and their environment.
In Article 14 of the Nature Conservation and Amenity Lands (Northern Ireland) Order, 1985 the objectives of designation are spelt out in principle. For the area designated the Department may formulate proposals for:
- Conserving or enhancing the natural beauty or amenities of that area;
- Conserving wildlife, historic objects or natural phenomena within it;
- Promoting its enjoyment by the public; and
- Providing or maintaining public access to it.
The Department will use designation to heighten awareness of the outstanding qualities of the area and seek to ensure that recognition of these special qualities will result in tangible conservation achievements within the area.
Government’s Departments and district councils have a statutory duty to have regard for the need to conserve the natural beauty and amenity of the countryside. The Department will assess the impact of particular policies and activities on the conservation and well-being of the AONB and encourage and assist where possible in a co-ordinated conservation approach.
Location and Setting
The Sperrin Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) is home to the principal mountain range of the north-west of Northern Ireland, the Sperrin Mountains. The AONB covers the uplands and valleys focused on the spine of the Sperrin Mountains which runs from west to east. and continue to the east and north-east through the area surrounding Mount Sawel, the highest peak in the range, and across the Glenshane Pass to Benbradagh and Carntogher, and covers the eastward outlying peak of Slieve Gallion.
The AONB is divided between Counties Tyrone and Londonderry. The AONB is surrounded by lower lying landscapes of valleys and foothills. To the south, the mountains drop down to a more level plateau between Mullaghcarn and Slieve Gallion, which has been identified as the Carrickmore Plateau.
Landscape Character Description
The Sperrin AONB is characterised by a spine of mountains which runs from Owenreagh Hill in the west to Carntogher in the north-east, along with outlying hills. Many of the peaks of the range are over 500m with the more dramatic summits towards the north including the highest, Sawel Mountain (678m) and Mullaghaneany (627m). The broad rounded ridges surrounding these higher peaks are prevalent throughout the AONB with moorland features and bog land also found extensively. Gortin Glen and the surrounding upland area towards Mary Gray act as a gateway to the Sperrin AONB from the south-west. The Strule Valley forms a scenic landscape to the south-west of the AONB.
To the north-east of Mullaghaneany the Sperrins join with the bold basalt escarpment of Benbradagh dominating the head of the Roe Valley. The conifer plantations at Banagher and along the Glenshane Pass contrast with the surrounding open moorland. The Glenshane Pass provides the main corridor of access from the north-west towards Belfast and the east. The screes of Mullaghmore are a prominent feature above the farmed upper Moyola valley, bordering the AONB. Slieve Gallion is the most easterly peak of the Sperrins, with distinctive ladder fields on its flanks, and provides views from its eastern slope over the surrounding area to Lough Neagh to the east and beyond to Slemish Mountain in the north-east, within the Antrim Coast and Glens AONB.
There are multiple fast-running streams throughout the slopes and gullies have resulted in places sometimes becoming deep and branching. The Glenelly Valley cuts through the AONB from east to west from Mullaghaneany to Plumbridge. The river has cut deep into the softer deposits and meanders between steep ridges which combine with to give the area a hidden quality which is at odds with the expansive nature of the uplands area surrounding on either side. Glenelly is recognised as a scenic route of particular quality. To the south beyond the broad rounded ridge of Craignamaddy the Owenkillew River has formed another upland valley to the north of Crocknamoghil which in comparison is much more open. There are many areas of ancient woodland, though most of these are very small in extent.
The mountainous peak of Mullaghcarn is within Gortin Glen Forest Park, an important recreational location that enables expansive views of the western ridge of the higher Sperrins to the north. The Forest Park itself is popular with tourists and the Ulster Way trail passes through the extensive conifer plantations within the park, before going on to Gortin and Glenelly.
Characteristics of the Sperrin AONB
The more elevated Sperrin mountains are characterised by expansive swathes of moorland with coniferous forest plantations contrasting harshly with the windswept broad summits which give an open character to these areas. Hedgerows and stone walls become more prevalent moving away from the higher grounds giving a sense of being more interconnected at these locations.
The higher peaks in the northern part of the AONB are distinctly more mountainous, comprising a ridge with knife-like projections and rocky summits beyond. These mountains provide the backdrop for many of the views from the lower hills in the area.
Given the elevated position of the landform and the low-lying nature of much of the surrounding area, expansive views are provided over the Moyola Valley towards Lough Neagh and beyond the River Foyle into Donegal.
Fast flowing streams throughout the AONB have resulted in the formation of deep steeply sided gullies and valleys in places with native tree cover becoming much denser along the floors of valleys.
Main transport routes and settlements are confined to the valleys surrounding the mountains, including the Strule, Glenelly, Owenkillew, Douglas and Moyola Rivers and their tributaries. The Glenshane Pass is the main crossing of the Sperrins itself and is an extremely busy route.
The deep wooded Strule Valley forms the south-west boundary of the AONB, while Slieve Gallion is a major presence from the lowlands to the east.
Though the valleys are populated, the hill areas of the Sperrins are a sparsely settled area with a high degree of remoteness and tranquillity. The mountains and upper glens have significant wildness character arising from their inaccessibility and are an acknowledged dark sky resource (Om Dark Sky Park & Observatory).
Natural Heritage of Sperrin AONB
The Sperrins are formed of Dalradian rocks and were pushed up some 450 million years ago during the Caledonian Orogeny. This period of mountain-building arose from the collision of European and North American landmasses.
The Dalradian series comprises folded metamorphic rocks including schists and psammite (metamorphosed sandstones). These are interbedded in places with calcareous schists.
The Glenelly River flows along one of the principal fault-lines of the Sperrins from east to west in the valley below the high peaks of Mullaghclogha, Sawel and Mullaghaneany.
In places ridges of glacial moraine of varying steepness have been moved by the fast-flowing streams throughout the Sperrins. The Owenkillew, Strule and Glenelly Rivers drain the mountains, flowing into the Foyle system to the south-west. The River Faughan and Burn Dennet flow to the north-west, also tributaries of the Foyle.
To the north the headwaters of the Roe flow north through Banagher Glen SAC. Both Foyle and Rose systems are important as spawning and nursery beds for Salmonid species.
The area is characterised by large areas of moorland where extensive areas of blanket bog are present, except on the steeper slopes. Despite cutting and subsequent erosion there are some extensive areas of intact bog and many smaller areas.
Heathlands include montane communities which are uncommon and declining in Northern Ireland. These include cowberry, bilberry and heather associations, as well as the only site in Ireland where the cloudberry (Rubus chamaemorus) is found in the wild. This species is limited to the north slope of Mullaghclogha though it was probably once common when the climate was colder.
Improved grasslands increase in prevalence away from the upland areas and hedgerows and hedge trees become more evident in these areas away from the higher peaks of the Sperrins.
Numerous woodland Areas of Special Scientific Interest (ASSI) include Drumlea and Mullan Woods, an important semi-natural broad-leaved woodland, Crockaghole Wood, Owenkillew and Glenelly Woods and Grange Wood. There are many other smaller areas of ancient woodland which are not designated, often along tributary streams.
Mullaghcarn ASSI has been designated due to its identification as an important upland habitat composition of peatland, lakes and woodland. Owenkillew River ASSI is designated for its pearl mussels and other key species.
Cultural Heritage of Sperrin AONB
Concentrations of Neolithic megaliths and Bronze Age standing stones and stone circles are found across the AONB. Later settlement cover appears to have moved further downslope into the valleys with concentrations of raths found in the Glenelly Valley, as well as within other valleys and passes.
Beaghmore Stone Circle and many other ancient cairns and burial mounds are scattered across the landscape; each one is a portal to a forgotten past, a testament to the lives and beliefs of those who walked these hills before us.
The lower valley slopes retain the historic field pattern, with hedgerows, earth banks and stone walls enclosing a diverse patchwork of fields and woodlands. Stone walls on the upper slopes often follow the historic townland boundaries. In more remote areas to the north-east these historic field patterns are in pristine condition. Ladder fields are a locally distinct feature, and there are traces of the former rundale, or open-field systems.
There are few large settlements within the AONB landscape, the largest settlements being the Donemana and Plumbridge. In the heart of the Sperrins the population is dispersed along the main valleys, including the small settlements of Cranagh and Gortin.
Numbers of wallsteads – the remains of abandoned cottages – dot the upper valleys. These marginal areas were historically populated but have declined due to a range of economic factors, while the lower valleys retain a thriving population.
Large areas of coniferous forestry planted across the uplands in the later 20th century forming the Glenlark and Banagher Forests. The latter encloses the Banagher Dam built in the 1930 to hold the Altnaheglish Reservoir. Gortin Glen Forest Park, ‘the western gateway to the Sperrins’ opened in 1967, and is operated by the Forest Service, along with Banagher and plantations at Glenshane and Iniscarn.
Field patterns become more apparent and regular beyond the slopes of the higher ground, with a return to the improved grasslands which dominate much of Northern Ireland as a whole.
Key Features
- Protected areas:
These include Sperrins AONB; Banagher Glen SAC; Carn-Glenshane SAC; numerous woodlands and uplands are protected as ASSI, including Drumlea and Mullan Woods, Crockaghole Wood, Owenkillew and Glenelly Woods, and Grange Wood. - Access, recreation and vistas:
Glenelly Valley acknowledged as one of the best scenic drives in the world; the Sperrin range incorporates the wildest, most remote landscapes in Northern Ireland; Gortin Glen Forest Park; Ulster Way; popular hill summit ascents; ecotourism businesses; opportunities for walking, cycling, climbing, and kayaking. There are several notable viewpoints to appreciate the surrounding landscape. The sense of isolation and tranquillity, combined with minimal light pollution makes the Sperrin AONB ideal for the appreciation of dark skies. - Archaeology:
The Sperrin AONB contains extensive archaeological heritage. With concentrations of Neolithic and Bronze Age sites; numerous raths along valleys; historic field patterns including ladder fields and traces of former open-field systems. The landscape has influenced spiritual and religious values of people living in the area over the millennia. - Inspiration and aesthetic values:
Providing a sense of place, thriving rural communities with a very strong sense of local identity, particularly within Plumbridge, Gortin and Glenelly; strong identification with the Sperrin AONB and across neighbouring areas. The Wild and rugged mountains and pastoral valleys; scenic qualities of Glenelly and other valleys; long views from highest peaks; inspiration for traditional stories and songs; important dark sky area - Perceptual Affects of AONB
The Sperrin range incorporates the wildest and most remote of Northern Ireland’s landscapes. Glenelly Valley is seen as one of the most idyllic settings in Northern Ireland and is famed as a scenic drive.
The main ridge of the Sperrins, defined by its rocky summits including Sawel, dominates much of the surrounding landscape and provides the backdrop for many of the views.
There are expansive vistas and sights in all directions from the high points of the Sperrin AONB: east over the lower lying lands surrounding Lough Neagh; north along the Roe Valley to Lough Foyle and Inishowen; south across the central Tyrone farmlands; and west across the River Foyle to the hills of Donegal.
Settlements and main transport routes are mainly confined to the valley areas and the more elevated areas feel particularly desolate and isolated given the prevalence of windswept moorland and bogs at these locations.
Given its inaccessible nature, many parts of the area are highly tranquil, especially the more sheltered areas towards Glenelly Valley. The higher peaks towards the east have a wilder character resulting from the rugged terrain, high level of exposure and remoteness.
Moor Lough to the north of Owenreagh Hill is the setting of the traditional song, The Moorlough Shore, which refers to the “hills and dales and flowery vales” of the area.
The poet, historian and naturalist George Barnett (1876–1965) spent his life studying and writing about the Sperrins. His topographical poems include “Life in Glenelly”:
The hill of Mary Gray, located in the southwest of the AONB, and Bessy Bell (located just beyond the western boundary of the AONB) were named after the - "twa bonnie lassies" - who feature in the ballad of the same name. Named by Scottish immigrants who passed through Ireland to make passage to America. The ballad is reportedly based on the death of two Perthshire ladies who died of the plague in 1645.
Forces of Change upon the AONB
- Climate change:
Blanket bog across the Sperrins may begin to dry due to summer droughts. Active wet bogs could become inactive dry bogs or wet heath. Wildfires across the upland may become more commonplace, and erosion is likely to increase, both of which will adversely affect biodiversity and the appearance of the hills. Flash flooding is likely to have impacts downstream on settlements and pastureland. Rare plants such as cloudberry may be lost as they struggle with changing conditions. Riparian broadleaf woodlands may come under more stress with changing conditions. Warmer, drier summers may encourage increased tourism, with additional pressure for facilities. - Tranquillity:
A key characteristic of the AONB is its remoteness, representing one of the most extensive areas of tranquillity in Northern Ireland. Substantial development on the uplands, of any form, could represent a significant change in this landscape. - Renewable energy:
The remoteness of the Sperrin AONB, along with high elevations and windiness, there is potential for significant impacts from large scale wind energy development in the uplands of the AONB. Impact on the character, openness, tranquillity, and visual amenity of the area, must be a prime consideration. Landscape and Visual Impact studies could help to identify these potential effects, including cumulative effects, of wind turbines in the area. - Minerals:
There has been historical extraction of gold in the Sperrins, and exploratory work has been undertaken to investigate commercial mining. Any expansion into a large-scale operation, the impacts of industrial plant, noise, excavation and heavy vehicular movements on landscape character and tranquillity would need to be very carefully considered. - Forestry:
Large scale public and private forestry have historically been shaped in block forms of straight-lines and rectangles. New and restructured forests should modern forestry guidelines, resulting in a better fit with the landscape. - Peatland:
Blanket bogs have typically received less protection from peat cutting than lowland peat bogs. Increasing pressure for peat extraction, combined with the growing awareness of the importance of carbon-rich soils, may have implications for the level of protection and the types of peat cutting permitted.
Management Plan
The Sperrins Partnership is currently developing a 10-year Management Plan and a 5-year Action Plan for the Sperrin AONB. The management plan will guide positive change in the Sperrin AONB, leading to benefits for a range of landscape characteristics.
Further Information
The Boundary of the Sperrin AONB can be viewed on the Natural Environment Map Viewer
The Boundary of the Sperrin AONB can be downloaded from the Download Digital Datasets of natural environment designated features.